So what is hyperpigmentation exactly? You might know hyperpigmentation as dark spot, age spot, sun spots, acne scarring, pregnancy ‘stash, melasma. Today, I’m going to explain to you each of the different types of hyperpigmentation and how to treat it.
Hyperpigmentation is really an umbrella term for discoloration of skin. Most of the time it is caused by excess exposure to the sun and the harmful UV rays causing an over production of melanin which gives our skin that dark spot. But it can also be caused by injury to the skin such as acne or a cut where it has become inflamed resulting in the skin trying to help treat the wound causing discoloration.
Let’s start with Post-Inflammatory Erythema or PIE
PIE spots are the more reddish, pink marks on your skin usually from post-acne, a cut, and sometimes aggressive exfoliation (no nut scrubs!) This type of Post Inflammatory is more common in lighter skin tones. When the skin is injured, blood rushes to that area to help try to treat it. The blood ends up staying for a while resulting in the red color. This is a vascular and capillary issue as opposed to an overproduction of melanin
The more inflamed, the worse it gets and the longer it takes to get rid of the spot. You can determine if the spot is PIE by pressing on it and if the color goes away for a second, it’s PIE. it can go away on its own, but you’re looking at 3 months to a year.
Now on to Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation or PIH
PIE and PIH are very similar, however, PIH leaves purple, red, or brown marks and is more common in darker skin tones. The cause is post-acne, a cut or aggressive exfoliation, but the inflammation causes an excess melanin production causing the darker color.
To avoid PIE/PIH type of hyperpigmentation:
- Don’t pick or scratch your face, this will cause more inflammation on zits, rashes, and bug bites
- Don’t ever cleanse, use something gentle to avoid irritating it more. Don’t use brushes on your inflamed areas
- Avoid harsh physical exfoliants
- Don’t put lemon or essential oils on the areas at high concentration.
- Avoid DIY face treatments – Get products designed for your face by dermatologists so the ingredients are in the right dosage
Melasma
Melasma shows up in large, splotchy, and spread out found on the cheeks, bridge of nose, forehead, chin, and upper lip. It also is commonly found on the body that is exposed to the sun such as the chest and hands. They are grey-brown or brown in color. It’s caused by genetics, UV exposure, and hormonal influences and is more common in women than men. It’s also known as “pregnancy mask”. Melasma is usually more difficult to treat due to the genetic factors that can cause it.
If the skin gets aggravated by the sun aka tanning or you get a sunburn, the UV rays penetrate deep into layers of skin and to the cells. Whereas on a normal day the cells can protect from the sun, but that overexposure the melanin (that gives us color) is trying to protect the cells from the sun, overproducing melanin bringing that color to the surface of the skin. There are more science and other technical terms, but that’s the gist of it.
And if the UV rays go too deep, it can get to our DNA damaging it therefore causing skin cancer or melanoma.
Melasma often fades on its own after pregnancy or after an affected woman goes off birth control pills.
Treatment:
The skin naturally “sheds” every 28-30 days called the skin cycle to reveal new, fresh skin, but the deeper the ‘wound’ the harder it is to treat especially naturally through the skin cycle.
For products, you need to inhibit melanin production with lightening and brightening ingredients.
For PI’s, you should avoid drying alcohol, not all alcohols are created equal, as well as avoid astringents that strip the skin. Don’t use witch hazel, it can be too harsh.)
Stop using highly concentrated citrus, tea tree, and other essential oils as they can be very irritating to the skin even for all skin types.
Ingredients:
- Hydroquinone – decrease melanin production and is the gold standard of hyperpigmentation
- Should NOT use long term
- Should NOT use if you are pregnant
- Works really well when paired with a retinoid
- You have to use it consistently to see results
- Arbutin – inhibits melanin production
- Safe for pregnant women
- Kojic Acid – natural hydroquinone – inhibits melanin productions & has lightening effects
- Anti-aging, anti-inflammatory
- Also known as “fermented soy extract” or “fermented rice extract”
- You can use long term
- Need to use with SPF
- Azelaic Acid – best to heal PIE
- Natural
- Helps with inflammation
- AHA – natural from plants & fruits
- Chemical exfoliant
- Licorice Extract – hinders melanin production
- Fights free radicals soothe inflamed skin and regulate oil production
- Zinc Oxide
- Mineral sunscreen
- Vitamin A & C
- Vitamin A – helps with evening the skin tone and texture as well as anti-aging
- Vitamin C – inhibits melanin production and lightens skin
Products:
Rodan and Fields Reverse Brightening – PIE & PIH
- AHA – exfoliate dead skin cells and polish away dullness
- Kojic Acid – brightens skin
- Salicylic acid – deep cleans and unclog pores so there is less inflammation and lessens the possibility for more spots to form
- Licorice acid – inhibits the production of melanin in the skin, helps remove excess melanin, has anti-inflammatory benefits.
- Vitamin C – topical antioxidants do the same for your skin by helping to offset daily aggressors like UV damage and exposure to air pollution. superior brightening agent that works to fade brown spots without altering normal skin pigmentation
- Retinal – helps with wrinkles
- Green Tea Extract & Vitamin E – helps soothe dry, irritated skin
- Licorice & Mulberry Extracts – Brighten dull-looking skin
Rodan and Fields Reverse Lightening – Dark Marks, patches, age spots, Melasma
- AHA – exfoliate dead skin cells and polish away dullness
- 2% Hydroquinone – gradually fades persistent skin discoloration & excessive pigment
- Kojic Acid – brightens skin
- Salicylic Acid – deep cleans and unclog pores so there is less inflammation and lessens the possibility for more spots to form
- Green Tea Extract & Vitamin E – helps soothe dry, irritated skin
- Licorice & Mulberry Extracts – Brighten dull-looking skin
**If you want to try Rodan and Field, send me a DM on Instagram, @annierosette93 and I can get you 10% off and free shipping!
I hope this was helpful and gave you a better understanding of what hyperpigmentation is, the different types, and how to treat it!
XO, Annie
